Bacchus Smiled

What he has learned has come through study, travel, and experience. And this may be the point to which his good fortune can be traced: Even in the early years, when he could ill afford it, Farrell went to Europe where he walked the land, picked the grapes, and met the people who were making his wines.

“He knows everyone in the industry in France,” says Charlie Haislet, an old friend of Farrell’s and the father of Sam Haislet, who owns Sam’s Washington Avenue Wine Shop. “I’ve traveled with him, and he’s the most interested person I’ve ever seen. He wants to know everything—about the culture of places, the food and the wine and the history.”

Mitch Spencer, Haskell’s principal wine buyer, has been working for Haskell’s since 1984. He started as a stock boy in the Excelsior store at the age of 16. He points to Farrell’s “patriarch persona,” and says it breeds a nearly cult-like loyalty—among employees, vendors, winemakers, customers, and friends. 

“This is not a business with a very high rate of pay,” Spencer says. “But people who work for Jack will do anything for him because he’s really generous, and I don’t mean just in terms of money. There are trips that any one of our customers would die to go on—I’ve been to France eight times. Jack has a compound up north where he has us all for ‘family’ dinners. That’s probably why of all of us, the least a Haskell’s manager has worked for the company right now is six years.”

These are factors, certainly, in Farrell’s rise from South Side Chicago pharmacy clerk to wine mogul. But the single common theme, the thing most people will mention, is his ability to come out on top in every negotiation.

“I’ve seen Jack do business deals you just couldn’t believe,” Spencer says. “He’ll come back from Burgundy and the hot vintage is 2005, and he’ll have it for $300 a case cheaper than anyone else.”

This, he adds, is why Haskell’s can offer better prices than any other vendor in town—often better than anyone nationwide. The same holds true when Farrell is negotiating for a charity event, which he does frequently. Despite being pro-choice and “socially liberal,” he’s a staunch supporter of the Basilica of St. Mary, and he donates huge quantities of product to organizations ranging from the Minnesota Orchestra Volunteer Association to the Minneapolis Crisis Nursery.

“About seven years ago, I was working with Jack on a very large benefit, and the banquet manager of the hotel where we were holding it was being extremely difficult,” recalls Lynne Rossetto Kasper, host of American Public Media’s The Splendid Table. “I was doing the nice, soothing routine. But finally, Jack turned to this guy and said, ‘Do you want to do this event or not? Because if you don’t, we’ll be more than happy to move it elsewhere.’ And of course, Jack could have gotten us a new venue in a second. He cuts to the chase faster than anyone I know.”

Go back to Farrell with this evidence and again, he’ll stop his calls, lean back in his chair, and fix you with his deceptively sleepy look. “A very smart businessman once told me the best business deal is where you both feel you got shorted somewhat,” he’ll say. “My first and foremost rule is ‘Will this wine sell well and at what price?’ Then I back into everything else.” Then he’ll pause and clear his throat.

“You always give the other guy a gracious way to exit; you never want to steamroll over anyone. But of course, you don’t let them play you for a patsy, either.”

He’ll wink. And by this point in the conversation, you’ll know exactly what he means.