In late April and early May, legions of Minnesotans slink into the woods to forage for the elusive morel (the official state mushroom). Prized for its distinctive meaty, nutty, earthy flavors, it’s never been successfully cultivated at a quality that can compete with nature’s. Little wonder that morel fanciers jealously guard the secret locations of their annual crop.
Fortunately, those who aren’t inclined to trek through the woods have a great alternative in tiny Bayport on the St. Croix. Chef-owner Jim Kyndberg of the Bayport Cookery says his own “morel addiction” began 15 years ago when elms were removed from his backyard and morels popped up in their place. At the restaurant, he goes through 50 pounds a week of morels during the annual Morel Festival, May 8 through June 28 this year.
Kyndberg’s Wednesday-through-Sunday
multicourse feasts incorporate morels in every dish, even dessert. He describes
a morel ice cream that he makes by drying and powdering the mushrooms then
steeping them in cream; it has “a resemblance to
butter pecan with a hint of
maple.” His inspired menus have also
featured trout served with tempura
morels, steak with morel risotto, and morels stuffed with crabmeat.
His favorite preparation remains simply sautéing the mushrooms in butter with a light sprinkle of sea salt. Like good truffles, Kyndberg says, morels have a quality that’s hard to describe: “They just make you happy when you eat them.”
Bayport Cookery
651-430-1066
328 5th Ave. N., Bayport
Weds-Sun, 5-30-9:00 p.m.
3 courses, $35; 5, $55; 9, $85
bayportcookery.com
• First-time restaurateurs Nuntanit Char-oensit and Kong Tiyawat have opened Tiyawat Kindee Thai Restaurant across from the Guthrie on Second Street.
• Porky’s drive-in on University Avenue in St. Paul has long been the place to while away a summer evening and catch a parade of classic cars. A second location, opened in December at 1851 Central Avenue in Northeast Minneapolis, also draws car buffs and serves the same legendary onion rings, malts, and Twinburger two-patty cheeseburger.
• The former Nancy’s Landing on Lake Waconia reopened in May as Lola’s Lakehouse, renovated and featuring “American fare with a New England influence.” There are boat slips for diners who arrive by way of the lake.
• Naveen Shrestha, owner of Highland Café and Bakery in St. Paul, now has a full menu of Nepalese specialities at his new Himalayan Restaurant at 24th and Franklin in south Minneapolis.
