On a
chill eve, there are few finer fortifiers than cassoulet, the classic French
"bean-pot stew." And there are few finer places to enjoy it than Meritage, the
Twin Cities' newest French brasserie, in the former À Rebours space in St.
Paul's historic Hamm Building.
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Meritage 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul 651-222-5670 meritage-stpaul.com Dinner entrées, $18-$32 |
Cassoulet is made in regional variations, with the only common denominator being white haricot beans. Meritage's tasty version has its roots in Toulouse and features garlic sausage, pork hock, duck confit, and a wonderful breadcrumb crust. (Vincent in downtown Minneapolis also serves an excellent cassoulet, filled with preserved duck legs, ham hock, salted pork, and pork sausage.)
Meritage chef Russell Klein, who owns and runs the restaurant with his wife, Desta, trained at the French Culinary Academy and cooked in the south of France. He offers a whole menu of French bistro classics-onion soup, roast chicken, and Parisian-style gnocchi, plus such plats du jour as bouillabaisse, rabbit braised with mustard, and sole Grenobloise. There's even a traditional cheese cart.
The setting, with large windows and overhead mirrors, captures the twinkling lights on the trees along St. Peter Street. It's a charming and comfortable space. Head there for a modestly priced pre-Ordway or pre-Xcel prix fixe dinner.
The big news in downtown Minneapolis is the opening of a two-story food emporium adjacent to the Pantages Theater that's backed by Bellanotte and Bella impresario David Koch and a group of investors. A traditional steakhouse, r. Norman's, occupies the first floor. Upstairs at the Seven Sushi Ultra Lounge, fresh creations are rolled until 2 a.m.
Don't Google "Strip Club" on your office computer, or the Internet police will descend. The new St. Paul restaurant with the risqué name owes its moniker to the cut of steak featured at the chophouse on Dayton's Bluff. Co-owners and Town Talk Diner veterans Tim Niver and Aaron Johnson opened it on January 15.
Also in St. Paul, veteran Thai restaurateur Supenn Harrison has "unretired," taken over the former Margeaux spot at Robert and Ninth streets, and christened it Sawatdee St. Paul. Her former restaurant in Uptown, under new ownership, is now called Uptown Thai Chili.
