A lot of people who don’t think twice about consuming raw fish of unknown provenance draw the line at eating raw meat. I was reminded of this paradox over a notably pleasurable business dinner at Sanctuary near the Metrodome recently. My guest, a confirmed sushi aficionado, recoiled in horror when, as part of our tasting meal, Executive Chef Patrick Atanalian sent out a course of what was probably the most amazing steak tartare I’ve ever sampled.

The buttery ground beef was suffused with an ethereal blend of what he later informed me was mustard seed oil, a homemade harissa, green onions, cilantro, salt, and a touch of lime juice. Most amazing of all, the mound of meat was set atop a caramelized pear—a combination that was utterly perfect in its harmony.

Sanctuary’s steak tartare will be on the menu for several months. However, Vincent, a Restaurant always serves a classic version of this personal favorite (a dish that allegedly dates to the nomadic Tatars of Central Asia, who didn’t have time to cook, and tenderized their meat by placing it underneath their saddles). It’s on the bar menu, but can be ordered at the tables. Vincent’s version includes the traditional chopped onions, capers, Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and raw egg yolk. It’s served with toast points, but I prefer to smear it on chunks of the restaurant’s superlative French bread.

Sanctuary
612-339-5058
903 Washington Avenue South
Minneapolis
sanctuaryminneapolis.com

Vincent
612-630-1189
1100 Nicollet Mall
Minneapolis
vincentarestaurant.com

Who's Afraid of a Little Raw Meat?

Like some dinner companions, the United States Department of Agriculture recoils in horror at the idea of steak tartare. The USDA recommends, with no exceptions—even when sublime seasonings and soul-satisfying pairings with fruit are involved—that all beef be cooked to an interior temperature of 160 degrees Fahrenheit to kill bacteria like Escherichia coli that might be present. Raw eggs—also a big no-no with the USDA.

Still, Sanctuary’s Patrick Atanalian doesn’t worry about serving steak tartare. High-quality meat handled well is safe, he says, and the acidity of the other ingredients is hostile to bacteria. His take: “People have been doing this for centuries and they’re still alive.”

—Denise Logeland

Small Bites Restaurant news.

• The restaurant community was saddened in July by the passing of visionary Tom Broder, who with his wife, Molly, was responsible for Broder’s Cucina and Broder’s Pasta Bar. It is largely as a result of his advocacy that small neighborhood restaurants are able to offer wine and beer.

• A St. Paul branch of the highly regarded Pop! restaurant was slated to open in August in the long-shuttered Fhima’s location.

• Also in St. Paul, Eric Austin, one-time chef-owner of Big E’s Soul Food, has taken over the kitchen at Tre Vina in the former Stock Yard Exchange, converting it to the Bourbon Street Steak House.

• At the Mall of America, the newest addition is Corona Cantina #1, opened in July, the second in a planned chain backed by Mexican beer giant Modelo.

• In Long Lake, the former Ravello’s is being converted to a supper club called Birch’s. Chef-owner Burton Joseph expected to open in August.

• The upscale Indian Dancing Ganesha has opened in the former Willie’s Wine Bar at 11th and Harmon Place in Minneapolis.

• After two decades plus that included several acclaimed and self-named spots, restaurateur Giorgio Cherubini is closing his Hennepin Avenue operation and selling it to Jon Hunt, who owns Al Vento.

• Phil Roberts adds a ninth location to his Parasole Restaurant Holdings with the recent opening on St. Paul’s Grand Avenue of a second Salut Bar Américain.

—P. L.